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Above the tiny village of Neratov on the Czech-Polish border stands a baroque Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, its traditional roof replaced by a glass structure that floods the nave with natural daylight. That single detail transforms an otherwise unassuming settlement into one of the most photographed sacred sites in the Czech Republic — and, in my view, a place that absolutely deserves a visit.
Why Visit Neratov
The Orlické Mountains (Eagle Mountains) rank among the most beautiful corners of the Czech Republic, yet crowds are rarely a problem here. You’ll find the meandering rapids of the Wild Orlice River, green meadows, deep forests, unexpected viewpoints and plenty of charming timber farmhouses. In the middle of this almost fairy-tale landscape sits the village of Neratov, watched over by the two towers of a pilgrimage church with a glass roof.
Neratov falls under the municipality of Bartošovice v Orlických horách and sits in a remote, sparsely populated part of the mountain range right on the Polish border. The church is a baroque structure from the first third of the 18th century with a turbulent history — a story of remarkable dedication by a handful of people united by a common cause. Its restoration has long involved people with disabilities from local sheltered workshops, giving the site a meaningful social dimension: a visit indirectly supports their work too.
You could easily spend several days here, making day trips through the Orlické Mountains or across into Poland. Nearby lies the First-Republic-era border fortress Hanička, for example. Or simply stop for an hour and explore the church at a leisurely pace — its main entrance is open to visitors around the clock.
A Brief History of Neratov’s Glass-Roof Church
At the end of the Second World War, an anti-tank shell fired by a Red Army soldier struck the church. In the ensuing fire — despite local efforts to fight the flames — the roof and most of the interior were destroyed. Later, the entire vault collapsed. Under communism the church was twice earmarked for demolition, but thankfully it was never torn down. After 1989, local priest Josef Suchár and the newly founded Neratov Association began the restoration — services were initially held literally under open skies. The distinctive glass roof, designed by architects Petr Dostál and Jiří Starý, was completed in 2007.
Given that history, the glass overhead feels not like an architectural experiment but like a gesture of reconciliation — the space remains open to the sky even after its restoration.
In 2024 the church also acquired historic organ that had previously served in Prague’s Carolinum, and they rang out for the first time in eighty years in 2025.
What to See Inside the Glass-Roof Church
The main experience is the interior itself — the combination of raw stone, timber and glass creates a bright, almost meditative space that is strikingly different from a typical dark baroque church. Both towers are open to the public and have had their original baroque cupolas restored. Climbing a tower is well worth it for the views across the surrounding Eagle Mountain peaks and the Polish side of the border.
Next to the church a spring bubbles up, linked by local tradition to Neratov’s pilgrimage history stretching back to the 17th century.
If you’re visiting in summer, bear in mind that the glass-warmed interior can get noticeably hotter than a traditional stone church on sunny days. In winter the glass lets in cool, clear light — without the usual churchly gloom.
The Village of Neratov
The settlement has only a few dozen permanent residents and bears the marks of its post-war fate. Following the expulsion of the German population in 1945, Neratov nearly ceased to exist and remains one of the most sparsely populated places in the Orlické Mountains to this day. Around the village you’ll find a handful of carefully maintained timber farmhouses that hint at what life here looked like before the war.
Thanks in part to visitors, life is gradually returning to the village.
The Neratov Brewery operates here, using water from the supposedly healing spring beside the church to brew its beer, Prorok. You can try it on tap at the Neratov pub, or buy a bottle to take home. The pub also serves good food — honest Czech classics alongside lighter dishes and breakfasts.
The U Proroka bistro next door is also worth a stop, not least for its acclaimed soups and beer goulash made with the local brew.
Village life is also shaped by the wider activities of the Neratov Association, which beyond caring for the church provides supported housing, runs sheltered workplaces and generally supports people with disabilities. I’d recommend stopping by the local garden centre, where residents from the supported housing also work.
Nature and Day Trips in the Orlické Mountains
Neratov lies in the valley of the upper Wild Orlice River, in one of the most remote parts of the Czech Republic — which is exactly why people come here beyond the church: for the silence and the nature. About 11 kilometres away stretches the Zemská brána Nature Reserve, a section of the Wild Orlice River with striking rock formations of gneiss and schist and a stone arch bridge carrying the road from České Petrovice to Bartošovice v Orlických horách. A nature trail with ten information boards runs through the reserve, with worthwhile detours to the infantry bunker Na potoku, Ledříčkova skála and the Pašerácká lávka footbridge.
Viewpoint seekers should head for the Anna Lookout Tower — a wooden structure at 991 metres above sea level with a 17-metre observation deck and panoramic views of the Orlické Mountains, Králický Sněžník and Suchý vrch. Close by is also Fortress Hanička, one of five completed objects from the pre-war Czechoslovak border fortifications — well worth the detour for military history enthusiasts and curious visitors alike.
The Mezivrší junction connects to the red trail towards Šerlich and Velká Deštná, the green trail towards Javornice and Bělá, and a yellow trail running directly from Neratov. Two cycling routes (KČT 4075 and 4071) also pass through, making Neratov a great starting point for a full-day hike or cycle along the Orlické Mountains ridge.
A trip to the Orlické Mountains pairs nicely with a visit to Polish Kłodzko or the Table Mountains and Kudowa-Zdrój just across the border.
Practical Information
Opening Hours and Admission
The church is open daily, free of charge. The towers are accessible Monday to Saturday from 9:00 to 20:00 and Sunday from 11:00 to 20:00 — it’s worth checking the Neratov Association website before you travel, as hours may be reduced outside the main season.
Services take place at Neratov at least once a week; the current Mass schedule is also available on the official neratov.cz website.
How to Get to Neratov
The village lies off the main road network and has no rail connection. Arriving by car is by far the most convenient option. There are two free car parks below the church; the larger one holds over a hundred vehicles and you can also legally overnight there in a motorhome or campervan.
In summer and winter alike, bus connections to Neratov are reasonably good; outside peak season only a handful of buses run each day.
Neratov is also reachable by bicycle — it sits directly on the Stezka Českem (Trail Across Czechia), and you can collect a stamp in your pilgrim passport at the pub or the information centre.
When to Go
The main pilgrimage falls on 15 August, the Feast of the Assumption, and draws the largest crowds of the year — if you prefer peace and quiet, plan around that date. Outside peak season and away from weekends, the church and village are almost completely tranquil.
Where to Stay
Accommodation directly in Neratov is very limited and books up quickly in season. Given the nature of the area and the need for your own transport, it makes sense to browse the wider selection of places to stay in the surrounding region.
My personal recommendation is the excellent Černá voda campsite (and guesthouse).
More recommended places to stay:
Czech side of the Orlické Mountains:
- U Proroka — The only accommodation right in Neratov, opposite the church, with the Prorok brewery and bistro on site. Buffet breakfast, free parking.
- Samota u Hadince — A secluded guesthouse surrounded by pastures a few kilometres from Neratov. Own restaurant, hearty breakfasts, ski storage, rooms and an apartment with kitchen.
- Chata Severka s Wellness — A chalet with a hot tub, shared kitchen, children’s playground and club room. Up to seven bedrooms — great for a larger group or two families.
- Chalupa u kapličky Říčky v Orlických horách — An entire 200 m² cottage with three bedrooms, a sauna and mountain views. Dogs welcome; ski storage and games console for kids.
- Horský pes Říčky — An apartment for four with a kitchenette and mountain views, close to the Říčky ski slopes. A newcomer with no reviews yet.
Polish side of the border:
- Derkaczowa Kotlina — A family guesthouse on the Polish side of the Orlické Mountains, surrounded by meadows and forest. Buffet breakfast with vegetarian and vegan options, BBQ and children’s playground in the garden.
- Enklawa w Porębie — Self-contained cottages with valley views; Neratov is about an hour’s walk away. Air conditioning, terrace, dogs welcome.
- Dom w Rudawie — A 70 m² holiday house with three bedrooms in the hamlet of Lasówka. Washing machine, dishwasher, fire pit and parking on site; dogs welcome.
Related Articles
- Guide to Kłodzko — Fortress, Underground Passages and a Gothic Bridge
- Kudowa-Zdrój and the Table Mountains — what to see across the border
- Guide to Litomyšl — UNESCO castle less than an hour from the Orlické Mountains
- Guide to Polička — a walled town in the Bohemian-Moravian Highlands
- Guide to Poland — tips for travelling across the whole country
