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Polička, Czech Republic is one of those places that looks like a quick pit stop — and then surprises you completely.
This small royal town on the Bohemian-Moravian border has fully intact medieval walls, a main square with a quietly vibrant atmosphere, and a story that stretches all the way up into the tower of a local church.
That’s where, in 1890, Bohuslav Martinů was born — one of the most significant Czech composers of the 20th century.
Polička is refreshingly uncrowded. It makes a great counterpoint to nearby Litomyšl.
This guide is written for day-trippers who have a few hours and want to use them well, as well as for those planning a weekend and wanting to go deeper — into the Žďárské vrchy nature area, up to Svojanov Castle, or out to the open-air museum in Hlinsko.
Why Polička Is Worth a Visit
Few Czech towns of this size offer such a compelling combination in a single day. The perfectly preserved walls stretch 1,220 metres around the entire historic core, with all 19 semi-circular bastions still standing — making this one of the best-preserved medieval fortifications in Central Europe.
Composer Bohuslav Martinů gives Polička an extra dimension. It’s not just that a famous composer was born here — the real story is where exactly: in a tiny room in the church tower, 36 metres above the main square.
He grew up there, and the vastness of space around him imprinted itself on his imagination. In his own words, it shaped his entire body of work.
Add to that a living historic centre where ordinary shops, cafés, and bakeries sit side by side.
And then there’s the immediate surroundings: the Žďárské vrchy nature area begins just outside town and offers some of the finest walks in eastern Bohemia.
How Long to Spend and How to Plan Your Days
One day is enough for a meaningful visit. The walls (45–60 minutes with a guide), Bohuslav Martinů’s birthroom (45–60 minutes), the main square, a coffee or lunch, and a stroll through the centre — you’ll see everything that matters at a relaxed pace in 3–4 hours.
A weekend opens up the surrounding area. The second day can be spent in nature (Žďárské vrchy, the Pustá Rybná area, Svratka), or on a trip to Svojanov Castle (16 km), Litomyšl (20 km), or the open-air museum in Hlinsko (30 km). By car, you can easily combine several stops in one day.
Tickets for both the walls tour and the birthroom are sold at the same place — the Bohuslav Martinů Centre on Šaffova Street. Tour groups are capped at 25 people and slots fill up in season, especially on weekends. Book ahead by calling +420 461 723 855 or emailing muzeum@muzeum.policka.org
Top Things to See and Do in Polička
- Medieval Walls — 1,220 metres of fortifications with 19 bastions, visited with a guide
- Bohuslav Martinů’s Birthroom — inside the tower of St. James Church, 192 steps up
- Bohuslav Martinů Square — a lively historic centre, free of tourist kitsch
- Bohuslav Martinů Centre — exhibition on the composer’s life and work
- Svojanov Castle — 16 km from town, Gothic meets Empire, owned by the town of Polička
- Žďárské vrchy Nature Area — countryside from Pustá Rybná through to Svratka and beyond
- Litomyšl — UNESCO Renaissance château, 20 km away
- Vysočina Open-Air Museum — Betlém and Veselý Kopec near Hlinsko, 30 km
- Toulovcovy Maštale — sandstone rock labyrinth near Nové Hrady, great for families
- Polička Brewery — a traditional civic brewery right in the town centre
What to See and Visit in Polička
The Medieval Walls
The walls were built in the mid-14th century under the reign of Charles IV. The main curtain wall is 2.5 metres thick, with a rubble limestone core faced on both sides with hard stone.
Stretching 1,220 metres around the entire historic core, with all 19 semi-circular bastions still standing — that’s exceptional even in a European context.
The guided tour starts at the museum and includes a walk along part of the rampart walk and a visit to one of the bastions, with commentary on the history and features of the fortification. Your guide will point out the arrow slits, explain the defensive system, and tell the story of the Hussite Wars — during which the walls held firm.
The tour takes 45–60 minutes. Tickets are purchased in advance at the Bohuslav Martinů Centre.
St. James Church and Bohuslav Martinů’s Birthroom
St. James Church dominates Polička’s skyline with its 63-metre neo-Gothic tower.
The church itself is freely accessible — the interior is worth a look, with the main altar and its statue of St. James designed by sculptor Václav Levý.
The main attraction, however, waits 192 steps higher. In the small room on the tower gallery, on 8 December 1890, composer Bohuslav Martinů was born.
The Martinů family of five lived in the tower until Bohuslav was 11. His father Ferdinand was a cobbler by trade who also served as the tower watchman — keeping guard against fire day and night, winding the tower clock, and ringing the curfew bell.
Martinů himself described this childhood in 1934, writing from Paris: “I think this space is one of my greatest impressions from childhood… It is this space that I always have before my eyes and which, it seems to me, I am always seeking in my work. Space and nature, not people…”
The room is preserved roughly as it was during Martinů’s childhood. From the tower gallery, you get a sweeping view over the whole town and surrounding landscape — Martinů compared the tower to a lighthouse.
The visit is guided only. Tickets are purchased at the Bohuslav Martinů Centre for a specific time slot — advance booking is recommended.
Opening hours:
- October–April: Tue–Sun 9:00–12:00 and 12:30–16:00
- May–September: Tue–Sun 9:00–12:00 and 12:30–17:00
- June, July and August: open daily (last tour starts at 16:00)
- Winter months (November–March): the birthroom is closed; access can be arranged for groups of 10 or more by prior booking only
Bohuslav Martinů Centre
The museum on Šaffova Street serves as the starting point for all guided tours — but it has its own permanent exhibition too.
It traces Martinů’s life and work: from his childhood in Polička through his years in Paris, where he spent the most productive period of his career, to his time in American and European exile. The archive includes manuscripts, correspondence, and photographs.
The exhibition can be visited independently, without a guide, at any point during opening hours.
Bohuslav Martinů Square
Polička’s historic centre is well worth a leisurely stroll. Shops, cafés, a patisserie, and several restaurants all coexist naturally here. The architecture has kept its character as a medieval royal town.
The square is dominated by the town hall, surrounded by well-maintained historic townhouses.
Polička Brewery
This civic brewery sits right in the town centre and has been brewing beer since 1517. Its flagship is the pale lager Otakar.
Brewery tours are available for groups only and must be booked in advance — check the brewery’s website for current information.
Nature and the Surrounding Area
Polička sits on the edge of the Vysočina highlands and makes an excellent base for exploring the Žďárské vrchy nature area.
The stretch from Pustá Rybná towards Svratka is among the most beautiful corners of the Bohemian-Moravian border region. Villages like Pustá Rybná and Telecí have kept their rural character, clear upland streams run through forests, and meadows with cattle and ponds dot the landscape.
Don’t expect dramatic elevation or sharp ridgelines — this is gentle, rolling countryside at its best. The Vysočina region is ideal for both hiking and cycling.
Where to Eat and Drink
Places to eat:
- Šenk Nožíře Dobroty — honest Czech classics in a historic building.
- Přístav — a restaurant right in the centre with home-style cooking.
- Kiosek u cyklostezky — worth stopping at even if you’re not on a bike. A friendly spot for a beer, ice cream, or a light bite.
Places for coffee:
- kafáč — a very pleasant café with breakfast and excellent coffee.
- Palačinka — great crêpes and specialty coffee.
Day Trips from Polička
Svojanov Castle
One of the region’s oldest castles stands deep in forest above the valley of the Křetínka river, near the village of Svojanov. It’s the only castle in the country where Gothic and Empire architecture blend in a single building. It sits 18 km from Polička.
The castle offers three guided circuits, but a large part of the grounds can also be explored independently.
Svojanov is worth the trip for the atmosphere alone — the surrounding forests and the Křetínka valley are picturesque, with well-marked hiking trails running through them.
Litomyšl — UNESCO Renaissance Château
Litomyšl is 20 km to the south and adds a completely different dimension to the trip. Its Renaissance château, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the best-preserved of its kind in the country — the Mannerist arcaded courtyard is unique in Czechia. The château is also tied to the name of Bedřich Smetana, who was born here.
Litomyšl’s town centre is lively year-round, and in summer it hosts the Smetanova Litomyšl festival. The Polička–Litomyšl combination is a natural fit if you’re travelling by car.
Read the complete guide to Litomyšl
Vysočina Open-Air Museum — Betlém and Veselý Kopec
The Hlinsko area offers two folk architecture sites that together form a remarkable whole. Betlém and Veselý Kopec are part of the Vysočina Open-Air Museum — a collection of authentically preserved and relocated vernacular buildings from the Bohemian-Moravian border. It’s around 30 km from Polička.
Betlém in Hlinsko sits right within the town — a cluster of log-built houses, barns, and farm buildings.
Veselý Kopec is a classic open-air museum with scattered buildings spread across a hillside — worth the visit even for those who usually skip this kind of thing, as it sits in beautiful countryside and pairs well with a hike into the surrounding forests.
Toulovcovy Maštale and Nové Hrady
The Toulovcovy Maštale nature reserve is one of the most fascinating and scenic corners of this part of the country. You’ll find sandstone rock formations known as Toulovcovy Maštale and Městské Maštale.
A network of narrow gorges forms a hidden rock village, threaded with passages, caves, and hollows bearing names like the Kitchen, the Cellar, the Mouse Hole, and the Bell.
The reserve lies between the villages of Budislav, Bor u Skutče, and Nové Hrady, about 25 km from Polička. The terrain rises no more than 200 metres and the area is criss-crossed with marked hiking and cycling routes. Entry is free; park at Bor u Skutče or Budislav.
Nové Hrady itself also has an 18th-century Classicist château worth a quick look.
Svitavy
Svitavy lies 20 km to the southeast and is the natural rail hub if you’re travelling by train. The town itself offers a historic centre with a town hall, a museum, and a local brewery.
It works well as a stop along the way, or you can combine it with other destinations nearby — such as the narrow-gauge railway at Mladějov or a visit to Moravská Třebová.
Where to Stay in Polička
Accommodation in Polička reflects the size of the town — don’t expect luxury hotels or a huge range of options, but the choice is genuinely solid.
- Penzion Otakar — comfortable rooms in a historic building right in the centre (Šaffova Street), each themed after a Czech monarch. Views of St. James Church from the windows, with parking and breakfast included.
- Penzion Na Chalupě — peaceful guesthouse on the quiet edge of the centre, with a garden and parking. Breakfast delivered to your room, very welcoming host.
- Penzion Květná Zahrada — a working farm in the picturesque village of Květná, 10 km from Polička. Farm-fresh breakfasts — cheeses, eggs, smoked meats. Ideal for families or groups, with horses and farm animals on site.
- Chalupa pod strání — a cottage in the utterly tranquil Vysočina countryside near Telecí, with an outdoor pool. One of the highest-rated stays in the area, with exceptionally welcoming owners.
Getting There and Practical Information
How to Get to Polička
By train, Polička is reachable with one change at Svitavy. From Prague, take an express to Pardubice and on to Svitavy, then a regional train to Polička (25 minutes). Total journey time: around 2.5 hours.
From Brno, the route is similar — express to Svitavy, then the local train to Polička. Total: around 1.5 hours.
Connections at Svitavy are timed to link up, and trains typically wait for each other if there’s a delay of up to 10–15 minutes.
By bus, you can reach Polička from Pardubice or Litomyšl. For longer distances, the train is the better option — there are no long-distance coaches serving Polička directly.
By car, the drive takes just over 2 hours from Prague, mostly on the D35 motorway via Litomyšl. From Brno it’s 1.5 hours; from Olomouc around 1 hour 20 minutes.
Parking: the easiest spots are near Synský pond or by Tylův dům, just a few minutes’ walk from the centre. It gets busy in season — free parking is also available at the train station, about a 5–10 minute walk into town.
