A region of deep forests at the very east of our country, where lynx and wolves say goodnight. Pastures where the tinkling of sheep bells carries to the roofs of wooden churches. People who are tough and uncompromising, yet honest and fair. That is the Beskids (Beskydy).
Heading to the Beskids for a holiday is a broad term. It’s therefore good to clarify a few terms right from the start. Along the border with Slovakia lies the Beskydy Protected Landscape Area, the largest PLA in the Czech Republic in terms of area.
Its highest part consists of three mountain ranges: the Moravian-Silesian Beskids, the Javorníky, and the Vsetín Beskids. This mountain range is the beginning of the Carpathian arc, which stretches across many countries all the way to Romania or Serbia.
To make it a bit more complex, further north—near the border with Poland—there are also the Silesian Beskids (Těšín Beskids), and in Slovakia, for example, the Kysuce or Orava Beskids.
Each part is unique, but it’s not hard to find a common denominator: the locals’ strong connection to folk traditions and beautiful nature, in many places still untouched by the impacts of mass tourism. And that is a more than good prerequisite for an active family holiday.
Velké Karlovice lies in the foothills of the Beskids and Javorníky. In a valley far enough from the tourist-heavy Pustevny, yet already discovered enough for families to stay entertained for several days.
Playgrounds, swimming, or several walking trails with tasks await the kids, ensuring even the biggest lazybones will be running over the hills.
When to go to the Beskids
Every season has its advantages, depending on what you expect from your visit. In spring, the hills are lush green and the meadows are in full bloom, but try telling kids about the charm of blooming orchids…
In summer, bushes laden with blueberries brighten every face, and swimming is a delight in the tropical heat. With the changing leaves, mushroom baskets come into play.
In winter, the Beskids open their snowy arms and lure you to the slopes, sleds, or cross-country skis.
For hiking trips with kids, the most pleasant period given the temperatures is from May to October; however, since many excursion destinations aren’t subject to opening hours (often freely accessible trails and nature playgrounds where the only potential obstacle is a blanket of snow), you can plan a visit outside the main season too.
The view from a thermal pool at the mists in the valley also has its charm.
A long weekend around Velké Karlovice won’t be enough.
Excursion destinations in the area
Portáš Malina’s trail in search of forest animals
Right in Velké Karlovice near Bistro Razula, a forest trail begins where kids can identify animal tracks, count tree rings, put words together, or encounter an ant maze. Thanks to the tasks, they’ll hardly notice they’re hiking up a steep hill. The trail is one kilometer long (plus the same back, or you can run down the direct route via the ski slope).
Due to the terrain and slope, it is not suitable for strollers. Parents will enjoy the views along the way and appreciate the original benches and wooden photo frame at the top. Before the trip, you can (but don’t have to) pick up a game sheet at Bistro Razula to record the solutions to the tasks.
With older explorers, you’ll enjoy the Search for Treasure at Razula route (6–9 km, also suitable for off-road strollers), but it’s better to check if the route is accessible before you go. Sometimes forestry work takes place here and access is restricted.
Kulíšek’s Trail
A relaxed, roughly three-kilometer walk is the trail where the smallest Czech owl – the Pygmy Owl (Kulíšek) – takes on the role of guide. The route starts at Hotel Pod Javorem, where you can also park. Then just follow the wooden boards where Kulíšek tries to find out what animals need to live. Kids get small tasks occasionally, encounter a stork’s nest, and in the final section, a sheep pen with feeding. At Hotel Horal, the reward for the hike is a playground and a great restaurant with ice cream.
Dr. Elinger’s Cardio Trail
Other attractions are located in the Pluskovec valley. Right by the Kyčerka resort, Dr. Elinger’s Cardio Trail starts with a giant metal slide. It’s essentially a large forest playground set into the slope. In addition to classic climbing frames, a forest gym, and rope ladders, there are also original wooden puzzles in the forest. A magical place, accessible via a roughly two-kilometer walk, is the Chapel at Štrčková.
Sculpture Gallery in Pluskovec
When visiting the Elingerka trail, you can hardly miss the open-air wooden sculpture park near St. Hubert’s Chapel. Kids can identify different professions or musicians in the sculptures.
Wallachian Balaton
Who wouldn’t like to cool off on hot days in the natural swimming pool in nearby Nový Hrozenkov. There is a sandy beach, grassy banks, easy access to the water, and several playgrounds. Refreshments are available at two snack bars, and there is a paid car park. During the holiday season, various attractions operate, such as ramps for ski jumping into the water.
From Kohútka to Portáš
It’s hard to describe this walk as anything other than “lots of fun for little effort“. You can drive to the saddle below Kohútka, and from there a paved path leads along the ridge, along the border with Slovakia, all the way to the Portáš mountain hotel.
Along the way, beautiful views of the entire Beskids ridge open up. The motivation for kids at the destination is a large swing, outdoor playground, and refreshments. The whole trip is about two kilometers and can be done with a stroller.
A walk from Čarták to Soláň and a playground as a bonus
From the Čarták Mountain Hotel, in front of which stands a great playground, a pleasant ridge path leads with several viewpoints. Without a stroller, you can do a nice loop; with a stroller, you can do part of the route and then return the same way. You can explore the details and map here.
After the trip, everyone can be rewarded at Čarták with excellent blueberry dumplings. Don’t forget to peek into the stylish info center in the wooden bell tower; it’s full of original local products.
Miloňová Lookout Tower
The year-round accessible lookout tower is an attractive excursion destination thanks to beautiful views of the entire Beskids. Adventurers can get here with a bit of effort from the Velká Hanzlůvka car park even with an off-road stroller, though the terrain is really challenging in places (fallen trees, gravel path). You can eat after the trip at Hotel Galik with a kids’ corner.
Horní Bečva Quarry
At the Horní Bečva dam, a trail with modern lookout gazeboshas been built above the quarry. It measures less than a kilometer in total. With a stroller, you can get about two-thirds of the way to the picnic spot, where you need to leave the stroller. From there to the wooden viewpoints, it’s only forest terrain. Hikers can go down a path to the other side of the quarry past the lookout walkway and thus walk around the entire quarry.
On the shore of the dam, there is a relaxation zone, a forest gym, and a great playground on the nearby opposite shore. You can find more details about the walk here.
Súkenická Lookout Tower
The walk from Bumbálka past the source of the Vsetínská Bečva to the Súkenická (Čarták) lookout tower is another easy trip that will be crowned at the destination with royal views of the entire Beskids or Javorníky.
The route is about three kilometers long. If the lookout tower is closed (it has opening hours), you can borrow the key at the nearby Hotel Sůkenická.
What’s worth a short drive
Pustevny and a walk to Radhošť
You can’t pretend that Pustevny, one of the ten most visited places in the Moravian-Silesian Region, doesn’t exist. However, when visiting (especially on sunny holiday days), you must prepare for crowds of tourists who take away much of the place’s genius loci. You can drive up from Horní Bečva or take the cable car from the other side of the hill (from Ráztoka).
Not far from the famous folk buildings Libušín and Maměnkastands the modern Valaška Skywalk. But expect to wait in a long line for an Insta-photo on the glass platform.
The ridge path from Pustevny past the statue of the god Radegast all the way to Radhošť can be managed even by less fit hikers and kids.
Wallachian Open Air Museum and Jurkovič Lookout Tower
The museum of folk architecture in Rožnov pod Radhoštěm is the largest of its kind in the Czech Republic. Discover the harsh life of the kind people in Wallachia through several tour circuits. For the youngest visitors, there is a historical carousel or a farmyard.
For curious kids, scavenger hunts (worksheets) are prepared. From the car park at the open-air museum, a pleasant walk leads to the original and colorful Jurkovič lookout tower.
Ski jumps and the Beskids Heaven educational trail
Above Frenštát pod Radhoštěm, around the impressive ski jumps, you can spend a varied day out with the family. Right by the jumps is the outdoor exhibition
Life in the Treetops – a wooden walkway with information about birds and insects. You can even try sitting in a bird’s nest. Entry to the walkway is free, yet it has opening hours. Check FB Beskydské nebe for current info.
You can walk for lunch to the Wallachian Pub at Janík’s, which has a playground in front. They also cook excellently at the Rekovicerestaurant right on Horečky; you can see the kids running in the forest from the terrace. Don’t forget to walk to the stylish Guardian of the Beskids bell tower.
Below the hill stands Horečky Ranch – a family mini-zoo with domestic animals, but also ostriches, peacocks, kangaroos…
Hodslavice
The most famous native of Hodslavice is František Palacký. And it is his personality that is commemorated by four new Hodslavice photo points (one, for example, in the shape of a giant chair), which you can easily connect with an easy, roughly 3.5-kilometer walk.
You can find more details including the route here.
When the weather isn’t on your side
Truck Museum in Kopřivnice
In one word, a great museum, definitely not just for car lovers. You can see polished trucks, buses, fire engines, off-roaders, motorcycles…
Plus activities to keep the kids entertained– putting together magnetic puzzles, listening to engine sounds, turning on headlights and warning beacons, or the chance to go through the entire exhibition on a balance bike.
Hat exhibition and General Laudon exhibition in Nový Jičín
In an inconspicuous corner house on the square, you’ll find the Visitor Center with two interactive exhibitions. In the hat exhibition, besides a kids’ playroom with wooden blocks, the main attraction is the fitting room for all sorts of headwear.
A floor up is the exhibition dedicated to General Laudon, who died here in 1790. Here too, kids can touch everything, put on costumes, and become a soldier for a while or a lady-in-waiting.
Where to eat well
Wallachia, although a historically poor region, has surprisingly many specialties up its sleeve to tickle the taste buds. Sweet wallachian pizza (frgál), blueberry dumplings, kyselica, halušky – these are treats praised nationwide.
But have you ever had frgál ice cream? Kontrabáš? Podlesníky? And buckwheat as a side dish?
Truly top-notch and original food from local ingredients is prepared at Hotel Horal. For kids, there is an outdoor play area in summer and, besides kids’ meals, also a special Kulíšek menu, with which kids get a free plush toy. Hotel has a strategically good location at the end of Kulíšek’s trail.
At another excursion destination – Portáš Malina’s trail – you’ll find Bistro Razula, where you can have pizza or lots of Wallachian treats (blueberry dumplings included). A large outdoor sandbox and toys will make lunch more pleasant for the kids.
The Pod Pralesem guesthouse and restaurant wins a special award in the category “there’s not much for kids to eat here, but they have excellent beer, so parents won’t mind”.
The Karlovice microbrewery is based here, and its products are definitely worth tasting or taking away in a PET bottle. There’s a small playground outside and yeast dumplings on the menu, so the little ones won’t starve either.
In Velké Karlovice, La Šiška will charm you. Kids won’t have anywhere to play here, but the coffee is divine and it’s no problem to take it to go.
If you don’t mind driving a bit for a gastro experience, it’s worth (perhaps as part of a trip to the Beskids Heaven trail) making the journey to the Rekovice restaurant on Horečky near Frenštát pod Radhoštěm. Outside, within sight of the terrace, is a carousel, a pulley, and a few climbing frames; inside the restaurant, there’s a box of toys, some crayons, and games.
In Rožnov pod Radhoštěm at Balloo Coffee, they have a super selection of cakes, sweets, pancakes, and excellent coffee.
Where to stay
Bivouacking in the wild can certainly be a great experience, but trips with kids are sometimes survival in themselves, so why not make it easier with at least some pleasant accommodation.
A wide range of rooms in stylish cottages is offered by Resort Valašské chalupy, which includes several properties. One of them is the Kyčerka Apartments in the Pluskovec valley, which have a convenient location for families with kids – Dr. Elinger’s Cardio Trail or the wooden sculpture park are just a stone’s throw away. Right on the premises is also the Hospoda Kyčerka pub.
At U Rajmunda Farm, kids can enjoy contact with animals and parents can enjoy peace and quiet; the farm is situated in seclusion in the forest. Hotel-style accommodation is possible at the Grandhotel Tatra, which has its own wellness center in addition to a restaurant.
A stylish cottage in complete seclusion in the hills, where you won’t meet a soul, is Chaloupka Prischlop. You can head straight out for mushroom picking from under a warm duvet in the morning.
A renowned brand in Velké Karlovice is Resort Valachy, which offers luxury accommodation in several properties (e.g., Wellness Hotel Horal, Spa Hotel Lanterna, Hotel Galik, Ski Resort Razula, etc.). Accommodation here is more expensive, but offers comprehensive wellness service packages, sports opportunities, gastro experiences, or animation programs for kids.
In nearby Karolinka is the smaller timbered Chalupa Pod šenkem, which is even a listed heritage building. If you’re going to Wallachia, do it in style.
For pleasant camping experiences without unnecessary crowds, you can also drive near Velké Karlovice thanks to bezkempu.cz. A spacious meadow by a traditional (and functional) Wallachian fruit drying housecan accommodate several tents or a caravan. In its immediate vicinity is the Timbered Chamber at Peciválky – a simple but clean cottage without electricity, which fits two to four people who love each other. The owner is a very helpful and kind person, and donkeys graze in a nearby enclosure, which kids will especially appreciate.
For caravan parking, you can also use one of the plots via bezkempu.cz –e.g., this one or this one in the Lušová valley above Halenkov. You can also drive a bit further to the verified Radhošť Pond in the village of Trojanovice.
For true connoisseurs who want to enjoy the sunrise on the ridge and an overnight stay in a national cultural monument, rooms are available directly in the Jurkovič buildings Libušín and Maměnka at Pustevny.
Cultural experiences throughout the year
Ancient fairs, folklore festivals, traditional Shrovetide festivities, and other events associated with folk traditions are regularly organized at the Wallachian Open Air Museum in Rožnov pod Radhoštěm.
The International Folklore Festival Summer at Soláň takes place annually at Soláň. This year the date is August 12, 2023.
Love food? Then don’t miss the Karlovice Gastrofestival full of Wallachian treats, including a competition for the best frgál or sausage. It was planned for this year, but just like in 2022, it didn’t work out and didn’t take place.
A beautiful, less known, and non-commercial event always takes place at the beginning of September in Vlachovice. True, it’s a bit further away, but you can taste Wallachia in its concentrated form. It’s the Open Drying Houses Day, when ancient fruit drying houses open to the public, the scent of wood, plums, dried apples, and herbs is everywhere, music plays, and spirits are tasted. Read more about the experiences from this fragrant event in the article Some Like It Dried.
Important links
Information about the village, accommodation options, and current offer of cultural events (e.g., summer cinema program).
More detailed information, e.g., on the level of protection of individual locations (can be useful when picking blueberries; it’s little known, but it’s not allowed everywhere).
Tips for places to visit in surrounding areas – Nový Jičín, Frýdek-Místek, Frenštát, Lachian Gate, etc.
Information on operating hours and prices of the cable car, scooter rentals, events (ice sculptures, sand sculptures, fair), trip options, or the history of buildings around Pustevny and Radhošť.
Cycle routes around Velké Karlovice
The region is not only a paradise for hikers but also for cyclists. Be prepared that the elevation gain on some sections will give you a workout. The reward, however, is breathtaking views.
Mája Jedličková comes from the Beskids and wouldn’t hear a word against her home region full of specifics. The temperament of her three little “firs” (born 2017, 2018, 2020) often drives her from the comfort of the living room into nature, which brings many great experiences, but occasionally also some heated moments (well, three kids, two parents, one set of nerves). She loves sharing both good and intense experiences with others on the website jaktajedle.cz.
